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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.